East African nations are once again debating how to reduce imports of second-hand clothing, commonly known as “mitumba”, as governments seek to protect local textile industries and tackle growing environmental concerns.
The issue has resurfaced across the East African Community (EAC), where countries including Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, and Rwanda are struggling to balance economic realities with ambitions to strengthen domestic fashion manufacturing.
Kenya’s sprawling Gikomba market — the largest open-air market in East Africa — remains heavily dependent on imported used clothing from the United States, Europe, and China. Despite heavy rain and flooded pathways, shoppers continue to crowd the market searching for affordable garments.
Local fashion entrepreneurs say cheap second-hand imports make it difficult for domestic brands to survive. Kenyan designer Zia Bett said local manufacturers cannot compete with the low prices of imported used clothes, while Tanzanian retailer Elizabeth Paul noted that customers often prefer buying several second-hand dresses instead of a single locally made item.
Uganda recently imposed an additional 30% environmental levy on imported second-hand clothes, on top of existing import duties and value-added taxes, arguing the measure would protect the environment and encourage local production. However, traders strongly opposed the decision, saying the mitumba business supports millions of livelihoods across East Africa.
According to research commissioned by the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK), nearly 4.9 million people in the region depend on the second-hand clothing trade. Supporters argue the sector creates jobs for importers, wholesalers, tailors, transport workers, and market vendors.
Critics, however, say the industry limits industrial growth. Experts argue that relying heavily on retail imports prevents countries from developing large-scale textile production, manufacturing, and export industries that could create more sustainable economic growth.
Environmental concerns have also intensified. Campaigners say a significant portion of imported used clothes are too damaged or poor in quality to be reused, eventually ending up in overflowing landfills. Environmental groups warn that many East African countries lack the infrastructure to manage the growing volume of textile waste.
The debate is not new. In 2015, EAC member states proposed banning second-hand clothing imports altogether. But the plan collapsed after pressure from the United States, which warned the move could jeopardize trade privileges under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (Agoa).
Rwanda was the only country to maintain tougher restrictions, sharply increasing taxes on used clothing imports in 2016. Rwandan authorities say the policy helped boost local garment exports, although smuggling of second-hand clothes from neighboring countries remains a challenge.
Industry experts also warn that even if mitumba imports decline, East African manufacturers still face fierce competition from cheap new garments imported mainly from China and Turkey. Designers say low-cost fast fashion poses an even greater threat to both local producers and second-hand traders.
Despite ongoing efforts to protect domestic industries, many analysts believe East Africa is not yet fully prepared to replace second-hand imports with locally manufactured clothing due to limited industrial capacity and high production costs.
Still, some industry leaders argue that both sectors can coexist. Mitumba traders insist consumers should continue to have affordable choices, while local designers say the region must focus on building strong brands, quality products, and sustainable fashion industries for the future.